Home Automation
So what is the principle behind automation?
It is a system of sensors and actuators controlled by a wide variety of devices. These devices may include wireless touch panel controllers and also simple wall mounted light switches, even your favourite gaming console could be used to control functions of the technology in your home. Remote monitoring and control is very important and can be used to check in on your holiday home or when one would like to see who is knocking at your front door when there is no one home.
What are the benefits?
An event or action can trigger a series of responses without human intervention. This is particularly useful in a process that is repeated at regular intervals, like switching on the house lights when it gets dark. These lights can be triggered by a light sensor to switch on instead of having to walk through the whole house to switch them on one by one. By the time you go to bed the press of a single button can switch the house to “sleep mode” and thus switching off all the lights too. This simple example of the lights switching off in “sleep mode” is only part of programming the system to respond in an intelligent way. We are in effect programming the house to respond the way you would have if you were actively involved in the process. Automation takes this hassle out of your hands and deals with it effortlessly while you can concentrate on more important matters. Another consideration is that of energy conservation. A system that is planned in detail and thought through in great care will help you save energy when it is not needed. When sensors are not detecting any activity for a preset time the unit will be shutdown till it is needed to function again.
Home Audio
Do I need an SVS speaker or subwoofer?
That is a good question. Let's be clear. Not everyone needs speakers or subwoofers as good as SVS makes. But heck, not everyone "needs" a home theater or music room either. If you and your "significant other" are content watching movies at low level, or you primarily watch VHS tape or cable TV via built in speakers, one of our subwoofers or speaker packages might be “more” than you need or want. Despite affordable prices, this is serious sound in terms of both quantity and quality. Nearly anyone hearing products we build will quickly appreciate why they cost more than less expensive models, even those from bigger more widely known brands. Still, if you have laserdisc, HDTV, or DVD you probably do want speakers and subwoofers that are true to to the music and movies, like ours. We build everything specifically to make your favorite audio materials sound just as the director or musical artist intended. If you call the place you watch movies a "home theater", or "media room" you almost certainly can appreciate the truly deep bass and clean balanced natural highs SVS subwoofers and speakers can bring you.
But why would you want real, deep and ultra powerful bass no matter what brand speakers you might have? Simply stated --- to capture the theater experience at home. With the advent of DVD movies and Dolby Digital and DTS surround sound-tracks, such sound is finally possible in your home. Again, that's theatrical sound in both quantity and quality, or concert-like music. Surprisingly, while there are hundreds, perhaps even thousands, of great choices in full range audio speakers (for your main, center, and surround channels. And we make some of the best ourselves). But, the number of subwoofers which can affordably supply both deep and accurate theatrical sounding bass are fairly slim. In fact, such bass is downright rare at prices most people can afford.
Most importantly, true, deep powerful bass is critical to realistic home theater sound, no matter how good your main speakers might be. If all the surround sound was icing, bass is the cake. Some feel it's the foundation upon which the theatrical experience rests. The ".1" of Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound is usually dedicated to subwoofers for a good reason. When an explosion rips, the tanks roll, or the pipe organs rumble, it's your subwoofer that makes the difference between "good sound", and sound you can feel too. And it should feel real. Today's even higher resoluiton soundtracks accompanying HD-DVD and BlueRay disks push this high-fidelity bar even higher than it was with the introduction of DVD over 10 years ago.
To be blunt, a relatively small number of audio enthusiasts have heard what an honest sub-woofer can do for their often pricy sound system. Those that have? They can't live without the sort of performance we deliver at uniquely affordable "price points". All SVS subwoofers will blend perfectly with your brand speakers. And of course if you start out with an SVS surround sound speaker package, you know every aspect of design, even the finish will be a perfect match!
What are some important things to look for when buying a subwoofer?
For many years SVS specialized in subwoofers, so many customers pair them with other brands of speakers they might have owned for some time. Thousands of demanding customers replace other brands of subswoofers with an SVS, many others trust us with their first audio equipment purchase.
So what’s key in a sub? First and foremost, you, the customer must enjoy the subwoofer. It doesn't matter if the "numbers" or "specs" say it's perfect... if you don't like the way it sounds...what good is it? However, at SVS we do feel a subwoofer should meet some basic verifiable performance goals if it's going to perform well subjectively and objectively, for the majority of HT enthusiasts. Some aspects are a bit technical, others quite easy to understand. In no particular order...performnace goals we hold dear include:
- Low distortion (THD)
- Low GD (group delay) to subsonic levels
- Flat in-rooom frequency response
- High output capacity that maintain dynamic sound without "compression"
Something to consider in terms of performance...if a subwoofer can produce 110dBs (very loud) with low distortion at 40hz, we feel it should produce as close to that output as possible, right down to its low frequency extension limits. This is called "flat" or "linear" response, where no one frequency "band" is overemphasized at the expense of other bands deeper or higher in its operating range. Unfortunately, the vast majority of commercial subwoofers are very NON-linear in this regard. It's not uncommon for a subwoofer that produces 110dB at 40hz, to only have the ability to produce 90dB at a much deeper 20hz. (or less, often much less). Keep in mind this means such a subwoofer produces roughly 6 times more acoustical energy at a relatively high bass frequency, than it is capable of doing down low. Like too much salt in a otherwise tasty dish, balanced in home audio is key.
Wonder why some subwoofers are said to sound "boomy and unnatural" when you perhaps heard them them turned up too loud? Well, that lack of "linearity" is a large part of the answer to the question of why some subwoofers simply sound bloated and detract from the natural accoustical experience you crave. While it is true that there are far more instances of 40 Hz bass in most modern movie soundtracks (and music) than there are increasing numbers of CD's and movie DVD's with truly exciting stuff at 30hz, 20hz and even lower. At SVS we feel strongly that both regions of bass (ultra deep and "mid-bass") should be handled with equal ease, and portray the levels and emphasis in these regions which the muscian or movie’s makers intended. Needless to say, the preponderance, or overemphasis, of mid-bass is not something most manufacturers are interested in talking about, yet it's a cost-driven reality that's more common than many consumers realize.
And “flat” frequency response is only part of the picture. Flatness at the sound pressure levels (SPL) commercial theaters are capable of (adjusted for smaller HT rooms of course) is what you most music and movie fans are after (even if not everyone appeciates the technical challenges of achieving this).. We adhere to the point of view that the two most important aspects of HT bass are "headroom" (clean power without audible distortion or "compression" of dynmic program material... , and ensuring subwoofer placement and calibration so each seat is optimized to have as smooth a response curve as possible for that listener/viewer.
Often times, folks don't realize that the bass requirements for true Dolby Digital (DD) standardized reference level movie sound is actually quite difficult to achieve (or could previously only be done at a very high cost). If you listen to reference levels, Dolby Labs ® requires minimum of 115dB peak ability with limited distortion at each seat...down to the lowest frequencies on the DVD (usually about 15-25hz). Most reasonably priced subwoofers don’t provide more than a small fraction of this sort bass requirement.
Furthermore, if you use bass management built into any modern surround sound A/V receiver to reroute some deep audio from the main speakers to the subwoofer (say you are using relatively small main speakers)...your audio “headroom” needs are increased to the 121dB range! That's 121dB at the seats, down to 20hz or lower. A very difficult challenge simply due to the physics of sound, bass in particular. In a typical room...you'd need a pair of corner located high-end subwoofers (typical examples costing well over R 21 000 each) going full throttle to approach this. To be fair, even one of our largest affordable subs (the 20-39PCi) can’t provide such powerful bass in a large room by itself. But a pair of them, a more powerful PC-Plus, PC-Ultra, or one of our dual driver Powered Box (PB) subs can meet in most rooms. As stated earlier, not everyone wants or needs true movie theater level realism, but for those that do want it, or for those few that already have it, you’ll be drawn into movies like never before. That’s what to look for in a subwoofer system... realistic sound reproduction, no matter what volume you prefer.
What if I already have speakers or a subwoofer?
If you have a subwoofer or speakers already, and find them perfectly adequate, there might not be much argument for upgrading. But, consider this…most "subwoofers" are really nothing more than mid-bass "woofers" that support relatively small satellite main or surround speakers. And many speakers? Mass produced at the lowest possible cost with little regard to achieving concert or theater realism. Now, there is nothing wrong with the concept of inexpensive speakers, but few customers truly desiring realistic sound will spend less than R 7000 for a full 5.1 surround sound system. We consider this to be about the lowest cost most OEMs can produce a genuinely quality set of speakers with deep sound as part of the package.
For music only, inexpensive systems can perform quite well since they will rarely be required to touch the first octaves (deepest bass) of audio. The usual "Sub-Sat" arrangements generally do a fine job of providing relatively low levels of mid-bass (which we'll put in the 120Hz to 45hz range). This however is not true bass, and it's far from what's required for reproducing today's movie soundtracks the way they were intended. A system challenged by diving deeper, below 40hz at least, is literally and figuratively leaving wholescale sections of CD or movie soundtracks on the "cutting room floor".
True, deep bass, from roughly 20-45hz is what you hear, and feel, when you go to a first rate commercial theater. Depth and power unheard of some years back is not vital to balance the mid and high frequency audio you hear, and which is generally easier to produce from the standpoint of cost and accoustical design. For convincing theater sound with today's DVD movies you need effortless bass that extends to 20-25hz or even a bit lower. Hollywood sound now regularly dives to near subsonic 15hz levels on a regular basis. Many commonly available commercial subwoofers manage to squeak out a few dBs in this range, but very few can provide adequate levels of low-distortion, high-power bass at the levels you'll hear, and feel, in a state of the art theater or music hall. This limitation applies to the vast majority of subwoofers, even those sold to augment home theater systems. Yet, those that can reach true bass levels are frequently well over R21 000, and that’s for ONLY the subwoofer.
If you've drilled down from our Subwoofer Page, you already know how affordable SVS subwoofers and speaker packages are, but integrating a subwoofer or even the speakers alone (say you have a perfectly adequate subwoofer already) into your existing system is very easy to do as well (augmenting what you have in other words). This is especially true if you watch DVDs and your sound system is equipped with a Dolby Digital receiver or surround processor. Our user friendly owners' manuals and on-line technical support will walk you through the process from unpacking to calibration. We are so certain that adding one of our subwoofer, speaker or full system packages will make a radical improvement in your home theater and music enjoyment that we offer a 45 day money back trial period.
What's best for me? Cylinder or Box SVS subwoofer?
Like so many things in life... it depends. Some folks like the cutting-edge, unique and understated elegance of our space-saving cylinder subwoofers, others value the more traditional but likewise slick simplicity of our box designs. In fact, aesthetics ... how you want your sub to look ... is probably the most significant consideration in your decision here. Still, there are some other "pro's and con's" to consider, and even the question of "looks" isn't as straightforward as it might seem at first. How you weigh these issues is clearly a personal call:
In short, cylinders tend to cost less, are noticeably taller, but at the same time lighter and easier to move. They take up far less precious floor space too. Boxes tend to have considerably more "heft" (requiring more "grunt" to place them; most require two people to move very far), have nice flat tops you can put things on, yet cost a bit more than the closest performing cylinder equivalent. Want further discussion on this eternal question??? Read on.
Cylinder Subwoofers:
The original SVS subwoofer designs were all cylinder-based for some very good reasons. First and foremost it's a very efficient audio enclosure from a number of perspectives. The internal pressures of a subwoofer of this class can be intense! Ever wonder why cylinders are used to contain compressed gasses? They can't stretch easily, and tend to resist forms of wall distortion that boxes must combat. In short, a box wall must be many times thicker and heavier to equal the strength of a simple cylinder. This affects several things in turn...
Weight: For a equal level of performance and enclosure space (the key to getting deep and powerfully clean bass) a cylinder will be lighter, and that means easier to move around your room, or from house to house as you go through life. One example. Our PB12-NSD weighs in around 75 pounds. The smallest powered cylinder, the 20-39 PCi is virtually a sonic clone in performance, but weighs nearly 20 pounds less. Now, 20 pounds might not sound like much, until you haul one up to the top floor of a dorm room, or nudge one into a tight spot in a basement. Most our cylinders you can sling on your shoulder, most our box subs are decidedly "two-person lift" entities. Of course we know that for some customers weight is good, it connotes quality and value. If you fall into this camp, then the relative light weight of a PCi isn't an advantage. In practical terms most folks will find 55 pounds quite enough!
Floor space: Because our cylinders go "up, not out" they can contain prodigious amounts of internal volume that would make for a huge box "foot-print". While a round cylinder base-plate can't snug into the very corner of a room like a box can, our cylinder subs still tend to take up less floor space than a box equivalent.
Finish/looks: All our cylinder subs are finished in a tough knit velvet-like black fabric we sourced from a high-end architectural supply company. Its light scattering properties means even our tallest cylinder subs practically disappear in a dark room corner. We've had reports of spouses that didn't even notice a surreptitious SVS upgrade until it was pointed out to them. As a result of the understate design we’ve sold countless thousands of them and most folks love their look. Some don't. They prefer the harder, more conventional edges of a box and fine textured finish or wood veneers. While our entry level box finishes are a similar shade of black, the fact they are not fabric covered enclosures is a plus, and we're not one's to argue. We developed high-performance SVS box subs precisely because folks asked for a more traditional design as an option.
Cost: Because the cylinder design is so efficient and relatively simple to manufacture, an equivalent box subwoofer will tend to cost more. Not much, but for some folks every audio budget dollar counts. A PB12-Plus and similarly performing 20-39PC+ favor the PC+ by R350. Now, you might light Cuban cigars with R350, but if per chance you don't, at least you understand that a box design can cost a bit more up front. Shipping naturally adds costs too, and depending on where you live you can expect a Powered Box to cost roughly R200-R400 or so more to ship given their greater weight. Our shipping rates are still amazingly low no matter how price sensitive you are, but if you are especially cost sensitive, the Powered Cylinders have a slight edge that might matter.
Box Subwoofers:
So cylinders have it "all over" boxes, right? Not exactly. Even though we engineer audio solutions for demanding buyers, there is nothing quite perfect (to our way of thinking). Cylinders have their advantages, and so too do their box brethren.
Size: While their designs are similar in nature (using common woofers, amps, ports etc) SVS box subs tend to strike some folks as less visually obtrusive. All while taking up more floor space. Why?? Box subs tend to be able to tuck tightly into a corner (you still need a few inches for the rear firing ports to breathe) and are naturally much shorter to boot. A PB12-NSD is a robust 21" tall (shedding its first generation basepate), while even our shortest cylinder sub is a little over 35" tall. This mid-sized Powered Box is a whopping 25" deep however, while the "Powered Cylinders" a mere 16" in diameter, and thus can fit into the tightest floor-space any theater or media room might present. But our great finishes make a box work like an end table, perfect drink height near a couch. Use a coaster so your Martini is shaken, not stirred.
Performance: If enclosure volume is about the same, there are no significant disadvantages, in terms of raw performance, due to a box shape versus a cylinder. But (there has to be a "but" right??)... boxes do lend themselves to multi-driver configurations that are simply not practical in a cylinder design. The PB12-NSD has single woofer so as you might expect, it's virtually identical to a 20Hz tuned version of our 20-39PCi subwoofer (especially since it shares all the same parts as the PCi subs). If you are with us so far then, you already know that when we released a PB12-Plus/2 a few years back (Powered Box, with two 12" "Plus" woofers and three way porting) you could expect it to perform nearly like two of our top-selling and industry-unique 20-39PC-Plus subs. Boxes can be made bigger and more powerful than a cylinder for those wanting the pinnacle of performance in a single sub.
Cost: Any single woofer box sub from SVS we'll offer will tend to cost about 10% more than its closest performing cylinder equivalent due to more costly enclosure construction, including the offering of premium wood or gloss finishes. Yet, considering even the lowest cost SVS box subs, like the PB10-NSD already outperforms most subs costing from R1500 to R10 000 more than ours, we don't think boxes levey much of a premium. In the case of that entry level Powered Box sub, we are actually under the least expensive Powered Cylinder, the amazing 25-31PCi.
Finish: Again, some folks like boxes, others hate them due to their relative commonality in the speaker world. Regardless of how you feel about that, the tough cured-poly finish of the textured black, the beautiful woods or the elegant piano gloss box subs are all stunningly attractive and still durable enough to live in the real world. Textured black is probably the most forgiving of tough rooms, where kids and pets might rule the day. Even the sexy gloss black has been specifically developed to avoid the fragility of lesser versions of this finish. Customers who actually own top brand pianos have commented that their SVS is actually better in the level of depth and quality we offer. The woods are unmatched on our powered boxes. You would have to look long and hard to find any premium quality furniture with workmanship so meticulous or materials this fine.
Practicality: There is not much more practical than a simple box (as long as you have plenty of floor space). You can put it in a corner, put a plant on it, put a lamp on it, put Granny's picture on it (as long as you understand Granny might be moving around a bit during the pod-race scene in Star Wars: The Phantom Menace). A sub like our PB12-NSD will be impervious to your kids' peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, it'll be immune to the most vicious house cat (though to be fair, we've not had one owner report any defeating our tough cylinder subwoofer fabric either). Plants, your best friend's bottle of beer, and that 50 lb. bust of Beethoven are all very bad things to put on top of our cylinder subs by comparison. Their tops must be un-obstructed as their top-firing ports are protected by a relatively light-weight mesh grill. If this matters to you, the box SVS's gain another point in their favor.
What size SVS powered cylinder sub should I get, 25-31 (small), 20-39 (medium) or 16-46 (large)?
Regardless of whether you go with a self-powered "PC" type sub, (or a passive "CS" model, there are several), each of our sizes of Powered Cylinders has its strengths and might work better for some customers than others. Truth is, for most programming played at typical listening levels you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the largest and smallest SVS. But these subs aren’t made for "most listeners" and we know many customers that go well over "typical listening levels". We’re talking theater or concert-like music at home here!
If you looked at either the various PC or CS subwoofer pages you saw the three series (sizes that is) --- The 25-31, the 20-39, and the "biggun" the 16-46. Each of these might be either a PC or a CS model (the former in PCi, PC-Plus and PC-Ultra types), but what makes them different? First thing to note are those numbers themselves. The first two digits of each series is the subwoofer’s "tune". That is, the frequency at which the subwoofer output begins to drop (by design) to best meld with your room and favored program material (and budget to a degree). The 25-31 series is tuned to 25Hz then (more on this in a second). The second half of the series number is the physical size of the sub rounded to the nearest inch. So the 25-31 is…31" tall from floor to top grill. The 20-39 then is tuned to 20Hz, and is about 39" tall; while the 16-46 is tuned to a ultra low 16Hz and is 46" tall.
But why "tune" the subs to different frequencies? Why not one size?
Well, like transmissions or engines in a car, one size does not fit all customers. Size does largely determine the nature of what a sub can do from a physics standpoint; because size of a subwoofer cabinet naturally changes the internal volume of the sub itself. And the greater the sub’s size and internal volume the longer the "port", and the airspace it can act upon. Bass and space are intrically tied together then. And that port works with the custom SVS woofer to determine just how low a sub goes in the bass spectrum. Note here that SVS subwoofers are fantastically efficient because they often eschew the equalization and megawatts of power often used by other brands to make up for a comparatively puny enclosure. SVS’s still require precise tuning to make sure they are tailored to their users though. So each size SVS has a port diameter and length precisely designed to optimize efficiency for its given internal volume, which is in turn optimized for those different kinds of users we mentioned bef ore.
What are those kinds of customers?
First are those that are looking for the max bang for the buck, in the smallest enclosure possible. They want a sub that absolutely raises the roof with both quantity AND quality bass. The sub must reach down low enough to do justice to all but the lowest bass on today’s DVDs and laserdiscs.
The SVS 25-31 PCi and PC+ subs are marvels in this realm. These mighty midgets (midget by SVS standards!) can actually kick out the greatest sound pressure level (SPL) in the most common home theater and music bass ranges before hitting the excursion limits of the driver (also known as "bottoming" where the driver physically hits hard limits of travel). Above 25-30Hz the 25-31 series SVS Powered Cylinders take a back seat to NO subwoofer in this price class, including other SVS’s! So while this sub doesn’t go super low, they do go into the 20hz range in most room, and can really belt out accurate power that defy their affordable prices. If popular music is your main source of pleasure (which is nearly all above 25Hz)a 25-31PCi or PC-Plus is probably your best choice. The fact these are the smallest and least expensive SVS subs using their respective 12" NSD and 12" Plus woofers, a big advantage for many on a tight budget.
But there is bass, rare, tactile and downright menacing bass, on a small but increasing number of DVD’s and CD's which goes even lower, into the 20Hz range, and below. That’s 1/3 octave deeper than the 25-31. This is where the switch hitter of our lineup takes over…the SVS 20-39 PCi and PC+ subs (the cylinder brothers to the PB12-NSD and PB12-Plus respectively). . With these subs you get the same flat performance up high, but at the absolute limit just a dB or two less max output (in those common HT bass regions) before the 20-39 hits its output limits. In return however is a good bit more depth, with several more dBs useable response in the absolute depths of HT bass. DVD's such as Star Wars' The Phantom Menace, or classics like "Super Speedway" among some classic and insanely low bass soundtracks will shudder you in ways you never knew were possible. Nearly no DVD low frequency effects (LFE) go lower than what the 20-39 or PB12-Plus (and the latest PB13-Ultra) can reach. Again, a bit of maximum output capacity is given up in higher bass ranges, but it would rarely be an audible difference in your home theater or media room. Then again, the lower bass that the 20-39 can reach is rare too.
We never said this was an easy decision! Keep in mind here that at 20Hz this class of SVS subwoofer would typically be producing as much energy as several subwoofers, even more expensive ones. This is simply ground that few subwoofers tread on, and many that do tiptoe, instead of stomp like a good sub should. It's simply expensive to make a sub this good. So with a bigger Powered Cylinder you trade a dB or two of mid-bass "headroom" relative to the 25-31PCi or PC+ ...but you get extension down to 20hz and well below in most rooms. "Thrilling" barely describes what most folks say when first experiencing this sort of effortless "extension" down deep.
That leaves us with the real bottom feeder of the SVS Powered Cylinder arsenal, the 16-46 PCi and PC-Plus subs. These give up a bit more total output capability above 25-30Hz before hitting amp and woofer limitations, though in this case you are talking about a sub that is still VERY strong in regions of bass that are quite literally subsonic. This class of cylinder subs extend down to down to 10-13hz in moderately sized rooms. Very few subs go here, virtually none in this affordable class do. If you like pipe organ music --- this is probably the model to get. However, (as above) to realize true 16hz extension, you're trading off another dB or 2 in the more common bass frequencies. If you want your bass both super low AND super loud a pair of 16-46 PC type subs might be advised. For more typical viewing though even one 16-46PCi or PC+ (the more powerful of the two with its 500 watt amp and 12" Plus woofer) is more bass than many people need.
With either one or two 16-46 Powered Cylinder SVS subs, we are talking about bass so low you can no longer reliably hear it, you can only FEEL it. In your bones, in your teeth. Bass that, when present in your music or increasing numbers of DVDs, can almost blur your vision. You can count the number of subs which can hit respectable SPL below 15-20Hz on one hand. Those that you can afford? Take a few fingers away. So with the 16-46 series "PC's" at SVS you trade a few dBs at gonzo levels of typical 30Hz bass, but in return you can truly reach the limits of human hearing, and beyond. Sure it’s bigger, and it costs a bit more. But for folks that simply must know they are getting ALL the bass, no matter what they listen to (pipe organs to nuclear detonations) the 16-46PCi and PC-Plus is worth its nominal compromises.
No matter what series you select, if you like to "take it to 11" and run your movies (or just demos for the friends) at full Dolby Digital movie theater level, or you have a large, open and otherwise challenging home theater, then a pair of cylinder or box subs is strongly advised. Reaching true reference level bass is far more difficult than most enthusiasts realize, we just like to think we’re more open about the challenge than some other sub makers. More about that under "do I need dual subwoofers?".,/
Where do I put my SVS subwoofer?
You might have noticed. SVS subwoofers are sometimes big. There are a lot of very good reasons for this discussed above, but suffice it to say it's one of those instances when "size matters"). Still, most our customers find these subs very elegant, understated, and stylish. The svelte cylindrical design takes up little floor space, while our box subs require a bit more "real estate". Either shape can usually fit well in a corner or along your front "sound-stage".. And corners are where you want them.
Many many theories abound regarding subwoofer placement. Deep bass is essentially omni directional, and with most setups, they are difficult to locate by ear. Yet for the lowest extension, and the greatest natural reinforcement of the bass sound pressure level (SPL) corner placement is usually best in most every shape room (and regardless of the brand of subwoofer). Wherever possible, avoid placement where the sub is adjacent to openings into other rooms such as hallways, and open doors. A closed corner, reasonably close to the prime listening position in your music room or home theater is nearly always ideal. Just be certain to recalibrate channel levels (set the playback volume) as you move your sub to different locations. Moving even a foot or two (say from a wall to a corner) can have a radical impact on how the bass sounds in your listening position. Just think of your room as another part of your speaker system.
